Rumney Sends

Overall, I was able to climb way better in Rumney then I was expecting. If you saw my fingers Wednesday night you would have wondered why I was going climbing in two days. I had no pad (think Dave Graham and Terremer) on my left pinky and a bad split on my right middle finger. I also had not done anything to help my endurance in over a month. With that said, Brayton and I focused mainly on boulder-routes, with me avoiding things with really sharp crimps. The first day I was able to send Stone Monkey, a 40 degree overhanging 30ish foot route that goes at 13b. The crux is around a V8 and is followed by hard 5.11 or easy 5.12 climbing. Brayton fell clipping the anchors and will send it next time he gives it a serious go. The next day I kept it a bit more mellow to give my skin some time to heal up. I flashed Flying Hawaiian, a super super super classic 11b at Waimea. The problem has three cruxes, but one is a really unique pretty blank and extremely delicate slab dihedral. The climbing required my full attention the whole time to not blow off. I also tried to flash a endurancy 13b while being run down by the first ascentionist (who was randomly belaying on the next climb over) but fell at the crux out of pump. On Sunday, I warmed up by trying Technosurfing, which is called the best 12b at Rumney. It requires some endurance as the crux is not very difficult but somewhat sustained. I surprised myself by flashing it. Next, I did Bottom Feeder on my second go after working the moves out. It goes at 13a but is only about 15 or 20 feet tall and is more like a powerful yet still balancy V7. Finally, I gave the Fly some goes but was able to do no better then establish on the start. The first picture below is Brayton, the second two Brian, all on Stone Monkey.