Friday, November 20, 2009

The Black Dahlia

I posted about a project a couple weeks ago in Joe's Valley. I got a text from Silven yesterday saying that Mike Bockino had completed it. This problem can now join the ranks with the best Joe's has to offer. A true stunner. Check out the video:

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Last days at the Red

The end of my time in the Red was good. I continued to check out new crags and on my second to last day I decided I had developed enough endurance to head to the Motherlode. WOW! That is a crag! I got on some amazing lines and managed to top a few of them out. Tomorrow I am heading to Rome, Italy to hang out with my family for two weeks. Until then, cheers.

Matty on No Redemption, Bob Marley Wall

Undertow Wall, the Motherlode

Ander trying Kaleidesope, Drive-by Crag

Sunday, November 15, 2009

More from the Red

I decided to take a rest day today. Being as I have climbed for as many as 25 days on, I thought I could stay on for 10 days here. But I have never sport climbed at a high level for so many days and while I still had power yesterday, I could tell my endurance was starting to be drained and my muscles wanted a rest. I did not bring my desktop to Kentucky (duh), so I download Picasa as substitute to Lightroom and Photoshop. Between working on my senior thesis proposal on developing a new paleothermometer using Strontium/Calcium ratios in carbonate nodules (I know, I am dork), I messed around a bunch with Picasa as a break and came up with these. Enjoy.

Thursday, November 12, 2009


Climbing has been going great. I feel like I am getting endurance and leaning how to keep the pump under control as I continue to move quickly up walls. I feel alright resting on jugs but things seem to work better when I just keep moving and shake a bit on every move. We have been checking some sick walls out: Roadside, Left Flank, Military, Solar Collector, Gold Coast, Biblioteque, and Midnight Surf. I love the names of some of the walls here. I have especially enjoyed going to less popular walls. The routes there are just as amazing but there will "only" be 5 mega classics as opposed to 15 (plus nobody else at the crag). Today I was able to fight my way to the top of Shiva, an amazing 13b at Midnight Surf, on my second go. It is as hard of a climb as I have ever sent and while it was cool to connect with something harder, some of the 12s I have onsited have felt a lot harder. It will be interesting if I can really take a step forward for myself in the next week here. Huge shout out to Dan Dalton for spending some serious hours on a rope today and snaping some photos.

Me sticking the dyno at the end of the crux sequence on Shiva

Ander on Iniquity

Me trying to "manage the pump" through the easier climbing of Iniquity

Monday, November 9, 2009

Red River Gorge

Dan and I survived the epic drive out to the Red. We were pretty inefficient at leaving and did not get out of Denver until 1 pm on Saturday. We crashed at the gate (which locked at 10pm) to a state park in Missouri for 4 hours before waking up to a shotgun going off somewhere nearby. We got in the car quickly and continued east. After getting in yesterday afternoon, we headed straight to the Roadside crag, where I onsited a couple of low end 12s. Today, I woke up with all the symptoms of the flu. I have about 10 more days here, so the first order of business is to get better while still trying to develop some endurance. I will take some photos soon and post again.

Entry on Five Ten's Blog

I recently wrote a little blurb for the Five Ten blog. If you read my stuff normally, then you will have seen the photos but the text is all new. Check it here.

Thursday, November 5, 2009


The Obelisk

I took a bunch of shots of this amazing line because it was so beautiful. I got to the lip once and it took everything I had. The mantle seems to be a whole other crux that I was not able to do. Amazing incuts on black rock into a outstanding compression sequence up the arete with a left hand undercling. Totally my style of climbing; I thought it was one of the best things I have been on at Joe's. 1st tier for sure and on the very top of my list for when I return.

Drawn back to Joe's

Silven and I spent the last four days climbing and exploring Joe's Valley. The weekend was busy but we managed to avoid all crowds with short hikes up to new problems. This trip more so than any previous one really showed me how much potential is left in Joe's Valley. This fall I have spent a combined three weeks in Joe's and have seen undone lines that are as good as the best established problems and that are only a few minutes from the road. I honestly think Joe's Valley is the best bouldering area in North America for its quality of stone, amazing variety of holds, beautiful lines, and great movement. The ease of camping there is a huge bonus too. There are some undone projects that I am really excited about and I will be returning at the start of December, weather permitting, to try them. Here are some photos.

Silven trying Gentleman's Project. Getting the spot from Douglas!

Ryan Young on Godsend. One of the best new problems I have seen. Head straight up the drainage from Eden for longer than you think you need to for this one.

Silven on Skull.

Barracuda, above the Wills boulder just a bit. This guy has the best mantel I have done in Joe's.

Ryan getting his pinch on for the crux slam dunk move on Barracuda.

Me on Botox Stand.