Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Old Foam?

Anyone have any old crash pads they would be willing to donate to the awesome cause of biulding a sweet dorm room crash pad couch? The more shitty / soft soft soft / blown out the better!

Friday, October 12, 2007


Ander made two weekday trips to Mt Evans this week in hope of sending his late season project The Dali. Despite a large flapper from his first visit this week, Ander sent it yesterday second try. Congrads man, a sick climb and even prouder to be your first of the grade!

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Random Photo Posting

Good news: Ute Pass is starting to come into season and maybe soon the Daddy Fat Sacks holds will no longer feel impossible to grab. Bad news: I somehow tweaked something in both my middle and ring finger and cannot climb right now. Hopefully it will heal quickly. For now here are two pictures of Julia Sick at the Pass

Sunday, October 7, 2007

Late Season Mission to Area D

After a long and tiring session in Clear Creek on Friday, a whole crew of CC kids headed up to Mt Evans to wake up early Saturday morning. I decided that any possibility of reaching the rumored greatness of the Area D blocs would be worthwhile. And I cannot say I was the least bit disappointed. I think I can actually go as far as to say that it may be the single most amazing climbing place I have ever been too. Four amazing lines each up the center of an overhanging face each with no other way to the top peached high in the valley overlooking the lower Chicago Lake. Despite a little wind, we had a gorgeous day that was even a little hot at times. Amazing for October. We finished our day by hiking down to Area A and everyone sessioned a little more. I slacked a little on taking shots cause I was so blown away by everything I saw but here are a few.

Summit Lake

Tallus below the Black Wall far above Area D

Ben on an unknown problem above Area D

Ben attempting a very hard undone roof

Ander on Slander

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Sport Climbing!!!???!!!

So I know my blog is usually about bouldering but just wanted to say that I am psyched to have sent my first 5.13b/c, Spray, at Elevenmile Canyon today. This is a a full four grades harder than I have ever climbed on a rope. Should I follow Ethans logic on Realization it would make Spray 12c or 12d. Maybe I have enough endurance now not to fall off the last move of Bushpilot cause I am pumped.

Monday, October 1, 2007

Cold Cold Climbing

The first block break of this year consisted of two days at Mt Evans and two days at RMNP. Old and new faces abounded and were generally friendly. Dan, Larissa, Ander and myself arrived at Evans on Thursday morning and packed in out stuff to camp overnight. Thursday was an amazingly beautiful day, probably one of the nicest I have experienced in the apline. Crisp temps along with a nice breeze made the clear blue skies still amazing for climbing. Everyone worked lots of stuff and I managed to come away with a send of the Mirrormask Stand. Paul attemped to climb the Dali wall in a day and in the process climbed Clear Blue Skies and No More Greener Grasses first go and Mental Masterbation second go. I worked No More Greener Grasses with Herm and Brian Capps for a while. Lynn Hill also showed up for a while and proved to all of us she still knows how to climb better than the rest of us combined. A true technician of style and form. The next day the skies had clouded over and the winds picked up but things remained dry. I had been eyeing the line Peasants into Leaders that Ben Scott had put up earlier this summer since I first visited Evans before school started and decided today was my last chance to attempt it before spending the next eight months regretting not trying it at least. After two falls from around 15 feet I managed to complete it to my great joy (and my spotters, thanks Ander for the body check to the pads on fall two). The climb is a true five star line and is one of the most amazing sends I have had. The next day at RMNP proved to be poor for climbing but after sticking it out under Tommy's Arete for 4 hours (I kid you not) durring rain, snow, and hale the skies cleared for long enough for Ander to do it. He was psyched and we quickly tried a few other things before wet looking clouds lead us to retreat for the day. The next morning was another amazingly clear day but Choas had been hit hard with a storm overnight. Most of the climbs were either wet or iced over. As we arrived we were met by four Jason Kehl and Abby Smith retreating due to the conditons. I did a problem that Paul said Dave put up that goes into the end of Freaks, it was sharp but still enjoyable. I spent the rest of my day working Bushpilot, falling off the last move a number of times. More ropes I guess. A strong crew of people from England also showed up. Si Moore made impressive progress on Freaks and I would not be surprised if he sent, assuming conditions do not get any worse. Dave Graham was also present to tell everyone that even though he was wearing layers and layers of clothes, it was not nearly as cold as Maine. On our way back down from Upper after looking at Jade, we were greeted by the angry cursings of JE echoing through the Canyon as he made negative progress on the Automator. GO POSITIVITY, GET PSYCHED!

P.S. probably the longest post ever written by anyone so if you made it this far give yourself a pat on the back

Block Break One Pictures

JJ demanded a 12 photo update from the last four days of alpine bouldering to make up for my recent decision to start sport climbing again. Well, I had plenty of sweet pictures but he shall only receive 11 shots. Details of the break to come soon.

Ander on the Dali

Lee Payne on All Dogs Go to Evans

Ander on the start of All Dogs go to Evans

Paul sticks the "easy" move for him of Ode to the Modern Man

Ander sticks the last move of Autobot despite copious amounts of glare

A snowy and cold Upper Chaos Canyon from Jade

Brian Capps on No More Greener Grasses

Ander on the Mirrormask Stand

Larissa on the Chocolate Croissant

Dan on the Bierstadt Boulder Slab

Me on Peasants into Leaders. Dan Dalton Photo.