Thursday, May 31, 2007

Back at the Five Star

Yesterday I went back to Goldbar with Boyko to try and finish off the two climbs I tried on Monday at the Five Star Boulder. I first went to Ebreositeey and spend a good deal of time trying it and made some clear progress but could not manage to stick the move to the lip from the start. After a while I moved onto Rossbongo, which felt extreamly hard because my tips were hurting at this point in the day. I decided to give the topout a scrub to get some of the moss off and come back for it another day.

The crux move of Rossbongo

Above and below: Ebreositeey

Monday, May 28, 2007

Goldbar Yo

So my new V10s are SO small but that is ok cause I also found a pair of pretty new pair of V10s that I totally forgot that I had under my bed so I was ready for whatever Goldbar had to throw at me. At least I thought. I wanted to flash Ros Bongo, which I got the the last hard throw and could not hold. After a bit more work I got to the top out but the key slot to pull over the lip was full of wet moss from a rainy spring. I guess I will have to return for the actual send when it has been drier. Next I did this cool thing Boyko said was V7 but I am upgrading it to V8 cause it felt impossible for a long time. Then I worked Ebreositee, a V11 that at first felt really hard but I was albe to do in two pieces and if I am less worked then I think I would be able to link. I shall return on Wednesday.

Using the Flash

Unnammed V7/8 just to the right of Ebreosity

Sunday, May 27, 2007

New Shoes

Shoes have been an issue for me for a while and I finally took some inititive and solved my problems. Shelia, the sponsorship person at Five Ten, quit and her replacement is on his honeymoon, which leaves me high and dry for getting free shoes any time soon. I should have a pair of dragons coming but they were supposed to be here weeks ago so in light of all this I ended up buying a pair of new V10's. I actually got a good deal, 60 bucks brand new, but I still had to pay. They are size 9 which is smaller than I have worn in the past so we will see how they handle themselves at Goldbar tomorrow.

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Leavenworth is the Shit

I got back to Seattle from Colorado on Wednesday and Thursday afternoon I headed out to Leavenworth on the east side of the Cascades. I think this place might be some of my favorite granite I have climbed on. Boyko and I headed to the Beach first with the intention of me doing Goicoechea (V10) while I was fresh as to not have to return later to finish it off. Things worked out and I was able to send in a few hours. Next we went to Mad Meadows we I was able to do The Sail (V9) and then worked The Hueco Project and The Ram to no avail. At Mad Meadows we ran into a crew from Portland including Adam and Kendra. We camped with them and the next day went to Forrestland where I saw many of the classic climbs I have heard about. Worked this V10 for a while but could get all the moves and then Boyko ran up this highball V6 with a hard topout. Next we sessioned The Coffee Cup (V11) and The Practitioner (V12). Good progress was made on the Coffee Cup and I feel like it could go with some more work. We finished off the day with a little work on this classic unnammed V8/9 but my tips were shot so we headed back to Seattle.

Trying the first (and crux) move of Goicoechea

Boyko getting high on an unknown V6

Adam near the end of a new V10 linkup done last weekend by Jonny

Locking off on an unnammed V7 at the Beach

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Night Session

No climbing since Saturday and Ander and I had begun to develope a hardcore case of cabin fever. Plans to go to Evans on Monday fell through with a loss of transportation and rain all day today kept us inside until around 7 pm when we finally got out to the Millennium Boulder. Everything was dry and we were able to get on a number of different problems. I actually was able to stick the first two moves of Moonchild, something that felt impossible a couple days ago. Purity Control seemed about as hard but could also definatly still go. Ander and I ended up just messing around on this V3 that we should not see any of the holds on and then bouncing around 11 pm. Tommorrow I head back to Seattle and Thrusday it is off to Goldbar for some good Washington granite sessioning with Boyko.

Monday, May 21, 2007

School is Out!

So I cannot put stuff onto the Colorado College servers while not at school cause my computer is an old school pile of crap so I decided to make a temporary blog for the summer. A little less control this way but way easier for the time being. The last block of the year is over and I am hanging out in Colorado trying to get a little climbing in before I head back to Seattle. Max Ben Andrew and Ander have all been here at various times but all have left now but Ander. We have had some good sessions at a variety of areas but have not yet been able to make it up to the alpine bouldering that Colorado offers. Hopefully tomorrow we will be able to head to Evans or RMNP but we will have to play it by year. So far we have been to the Millennium Boulder, Clear Creek, the Flatirons, and Flagstaff. I managed to send Captain Hook and The Turning Point in the Flatirons and some V7 at the Millennium Boulder. I have also decided that Ghostdance and Moonchild are impossible and discovered that the Dark Waters boulder is unclimable due to a raging Clear Creek. I will for sure be back next year for The Animal, Purity Control, and Hallow's Way. Here are a few shots of climbing and a few random ones I took using my new flash.

The Animal Clear Creek Canyon at 1 Am in the morning

Ben at Ute Pass below his Project

Byron chillin before Ben arrived for a session

Ben on Purity Control at the Millennium Boulder