Monday, January 26, 2009

New Look

Another Injury

Just as my pinkie is starting to feel better it seems that I may have seriously injured my knee.  Ander, Byron and I went to the Winter OR Trade Show with no music but the radio so we went to make a quick stop at a record store on the way out of Salt Lake when I slipped on some ice running around a corner.  At full speed, my right knee plowed into a cement curb and it immediately began to swell up. Shown below is my knee this afternoon.  I plan on seeing a doctor tomorrow.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009


Ander got into town at 4 am this morning.  Headed out somewhere after class today then tomorrow we are headed to Utah for the winter Outdoor Retailer show.  Hopefully we can squeeze in some time in Little Cottonwood before spending the day at Joe's on Sunday.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Corridor Blocks

Yeah, so my finger is broken but I am starting my recovery period after this weekend in an attempt to finish up some business. Today, Byron, Noah and I went to Elevenmile to try our luck at some new lines. A while back, Byron spotted a huge, yet hard to spot arete in some talus about the road in Elevenmile Canyon.  We stopped to take a look and upon realizing the 40+ foot monster with a horrible landing was actually a death route, we started walking around to see what else may be laying around.  It turned out that we did find a few hidden gems, with climbs that were very reminiscent of Mt Evans.  Media has been slowly leaking out onto the web of this area since it was first found so here it is, a video of the goods.

Looking to do a bit of a warm up, I brushed up the first line in the video and quickly made the first ascent at around V2.  Due to the reachy beta that both Noah and I used, I named the problem Snoop Style, in reference to the lankiness that Snoop Dog is.  Just to the right of this problem is a highly featured wall that will yield a number of cool moderates in the V7 range but we were not able to unlock them as daylight faded.  However, the main attraction is a stunning arete that has been dubbed the Gin and Juice project.  Imagine a steeper Bloody Arete with a much worse landing.  The problem revolves around a huge move to the lip off of a horrible wrap.  I am starting to think the stand alone might be V10.  There is also a clear sit, with even worse pinches and wraps moving into the stand holds, which will most definitely be southern Colorado's hardest when it goes.

Broken Finger

I got a call from my doctor today.  Turns out my left pinkie is broken and I cannot climb for one month.  SUPER BUMMED...

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Wintery Conditions

While Seattle warmed up and everything got wet, Colorado Springs stayed cold and despite icicles and snow on many problems up at the Pass yesterday, the rock was dry and crisp underneath.  I cleaned off all the ice that was over the top out of the Talledega Nights project and chalked it up.  I plan on heading up to the Pass again tomorrow to either try Talledega Nights or the Horseshoe Stratler.

Erie lighting just after sunset.

Icicles sticking to the lip of the Talledega Nights boulder.  The line starts on the left side of the jug and moves up and right on stupidly small crimps using a large heel hook.  While I have topped the problem out from a good incut below the lip at around V6 and Ben Snyder made it to this same hold from the start only to fall trying to top out in the rain, this problem has not seen a first ascent after three years of effort.

Sunday, January 4, 2009

In the SoCo...

Just arrived back in Colorado Springs. PSYCHED PSYCHED PSYCHED! I have not touched rock in two weeks and am on the verge of freaking out. Going out climbing with Byron tomorrow. Updates to come.