Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Great Barrington: Something from Nothing
After Big, Big Love, I set my sights on Joe Kinder's power climb, Something from Nothing. I have to say this is one of the better climbs of this difficulty I have tried in a long time. The whole boulder has a number of horizontal crack features that you are climbing and Something from Nothing climbs three of these features to a lip. It seems simple enough: big up, match feature, big up, match feature, big up, mantle, but requires both precision (think Green Lantern), power, and a lot of core strength. At 6'1" I felt extremely bunched up on a few of the hand foot moves (JJ - you should be psyched) but I was able to do all the moves in about an hour minus the crux right hand move (second photo, notice that my feet are not actually on anything). I really like the movement on this problem, it climbs amazingly well and I feel if I got a bit more powerful it would be possible for me. Check video of Ty Landman climbing this problem here. Tomorrow it is back at Rumney, this time to do a bit of bouldering. Hopefully
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6 comments:
the crux move has actually changed since Ty did it, there was a small stone chocked in that slot when he did it, and it has fallen out since. Nice work though man, glad to see you made some quick progress on that thing - I had little luck on it.
Oh and did you try Roses and Blue Jays or the line to the right of Something from Nothing?
what is the crux move now? the big up right sure felt the hardest. i felt the holds on the v10 stand to the right and decided no way on it and never tried anything on roses and blue jays either. i tried the v10 on the back side once with the big right hand move to the crimp but it felt impossible
rumney tomorrow?
that move is still the crux, its just a bit more of a targeting move now because you have to get in the slot, whereas ty hit the small stone which was sticking out as a crimp.
those wiley brits, always cheating and drinking tea.
if everyone else got to use a crimp, i'd say it's valid to smash a super old and hard cliff bar into the slot and dead point to that. if it holds, it's valid for sure.
[this line and the v8 look amazing and are on my lifetime list for sure].
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