Monday, December 28, 2009


Today Owen and I made the trek up to Goldbar. It was a nice day and everything was dry. We warmed up and I was able to repeat Twisted (V10) and the Rubix Cube (V9). I came very close to also getting back up Equinox but could not manage it. We spent most of our day at Lighten Up (V9). A large amount of work had been put into the landing since I tried it last and it was much less scary. I stuck the crux move in isolation and came very close to latching the same hold from the start. Guess I will have to try it in six months again like usual. I also put some effort into the newly done Positive Vibrations, which was fun and interesting but also very hard feeling. I probably will not get back out until January 5th or so when I am back in Colorado Springs. Until then.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Bret Johnston gets a blog

My good friend Bret just created a blog to chronicle his travles. He will be in Bishop until just after the first of the year and should have some good updates when he gets back. Check it here.

Thursday, December 24, 2009


I arrived back in Seattle for the holidays last night. I have been in Bishop since my last post. I will write a bit about my trip there in the next couple days, but for now I will just share a few photos.

Kyle on the Mandala

Max on Evilution

Bret on Green Wall Essential

Saigon boulder by night

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Big Bend

After a long hiatus from real rock, I am back on the road. I spent the last day and a half at Big Bend. For the size of the area, this is one of the best places on can go, especially in the winter. My primary goal was to work on Hellbelly. I had two long sessions on it and came away with still not having done all the moves. I am already planning a return visit in January for another round with this prize line. In other news, I did manage to get to the top of two V10s today. The first was Return of the Jedi, a low traverse that has surprising fun movement. I then polished off Big Horn Beaver, an amazing upwards rising sloper battle. I came very close to sending early in the morning but had to wait until the sun went down (and the rock to cool off) to hold the tension of the crux from the start. Tomorrow I will be in Red Rocks to check out the bouldering of Black Velvet Canyon, before Bishop on Friday.

Castleton Tower creating its own weather

A snowy and cold north side of Big Bend

Blurry self-portrait on Big Horn Beaver

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Back at Last

I have been traveling for a while now and have finally settled into Colorado Springs for a couple days. I will be leaving again on Monday to Moab, Red Rocks, then Bishop. Very excited. I have been training a bunch to try and get some fitness back and am starting to feel good again. Today Max and I headed up to a new block a bit past Ute Pass and worked on a cool line. Crimps and pinches up a slight overhang. Probably around V9 or 10. Here is Max sticking the opening move.