WASHINGTON

Well, guess what... its been raining in the Pacific Northwest. You know its a bad climbing destination when the weather is worse then New England. I got home last Thursday and Bret and I decided to go for it on Friday. It was the only day of sun in the forecast. It turned out to not be enough sun to dry things out and we struggled with damp rock all day. We both fell off grabbing the lip of Midnite. We also put some good work into the Archtitect but the top (crux) of the problem was moist. We checked out a few other blocks and things were either wet or landings had been washed away by flooding conditions along the Skynomish the week prior.

Snowy Mt Index

Pacific Northwest Rainforest

View from the quiet town of Index

Train tracks to approach Biult to Last. To access this block you have to cross a narrow train bridge. Just before venturing back across it a train came. Real glad we were not in the center when that happened.

"Trail" to get to Hagakure. This used to be a single track trail before flooding conditions last week washed the entire hillside out of any small plant life.

Biult to Last. One of the better boulder problems in the NW but the landing had yet to be biult to last. Once again too much rain foils our climbing plans.

Pawtuckaway

Brayton, Chris, Sam and I headed up to P-Way today. Luckily it was warmer then its been recently and we were able to climb without freezing today. The main objective was Stand and Deliver. I was able to do the first move and came really close to the second. Thing is hard feeling. I also climbed The Rose (V7) and flashed The Font Problem (V4/9). Despite the rock being less then ideal in some spots, I will likely return before it warms up to try Stand and Deliver again.

The Font Problem

Child of the Storm

bRADley

Sunday was a big ol session at Bradley. Max, Natasha, Jeremy, Brayton, Sam, Kieffer and I all headed down south to pull on the fine rock of central Connecticut. It turned out that 35 degrees is too cold for Bradley and the few sends that took place all ended in completely numb and desperate top outs. I was able to finish up the Prow (V10), and also do Homefront Arete (V7) and Underground Vibezzzzz (V8). In addition, Noah uploaded another nice peak into life at 1127 last year...

Update

So climbing in Washington was a failure. I ended up spending the night with good friend Ander Rockstad in Salt Lake City due to snow in Seattle. Great weather in Boston, snow in Seattle. In November. It remained wet and cold for most of my trip home. Maybe my trip home in December will be luckier. Maybe. In other news, MZ put together a nice video of three climbs I have done recently and one I should have done:

1127 Reasons to Climb

For those who know, I post this in remembrance of all the good times we had in 1127. For those who don't, I hope you enjoy all the out of context moments recorded here. Just to have one thing straight, my underwear are wet because I got hit by a water balloon. HD on Vimeo.

Bradley

Today I got to check out an area I have been wanting to go to for a long time: Bradley. I have to say that I was very impressed. Excellent rock, good lines, and plenty to work on. I climbed some classics up to V8 before setting my sights on The Prow. I made progress each burn until I was able to unlock the trickery of this climb. However, I totally punted and fell off the easy climbing with numb tips. Too bad, cause my skin was wrecked after that and I could not finish it up. Tomorrow I head to Seattle for Thanksgiving. The forecast is looking surprisingly good for the Northwest in November so hopefully I will be able to get out and scale some rocks.

Max projecting the sit start to the Book of Bitter Aspects

Rumney

Max and I planned Sunday as a different sort of day. Instead of meeting for brunch at 11, we were on the road at 8. After warming up in the Blackjacks, we headed up to Waimea. Despite being PERFECT weather for sport climbing, the crag was deserted. Not one person! Max put some effort into The Fly. A couple showed up for a second. Neil came by and flew through a warm up. Max convinced Neil to give me a belay on Riviera so he could shoot. I failed. Neil had to leave. Max hung on the rope for 45 minutes. I napped. Max came down. I did Riviera. Max tried The Fly more. Joey belayed me so we could finish filming. Max tried The Fly more. We left.

Farley

On Saturday Max and I got a very late start to Farley. Max just wanted to get some moves in on the rock to get warmed up for more serious climbing on Sunday. I had the goal of finishing up Prince Paul. I had gotten my beta dialed on Thursday only to be thwarted by wet finger locks at the top. Well, it turned out that getting the final finger lock was hard and it took some solid effort to get to the top of this rig. Dave Wetmore, who had a great day of his own, was there to grab the ascent on tape. With 15ish moves over 24 feet, this guy climbs a bit like route and sending definitely came down to feeling fresh enough at the top to still try hard.

Farley - Sunday

I recently had a little scare recently with my shoulder. Got it checked out by the doc though and was able to return to climbing after a week of rest. Had work off on Thursday for the vets and went out to Farley with Alex, Nate, and Grady. I worked out more moves on Prince Paul but the finger locks at the top were wet and I was not able to finish it off. We made a bit of progress on War on Terror. I also was able to climb Pterodactyl Sit. This is the first hardish crimp line I have climbed in a while, so that was nice marker of fitness. We finished the day off on the seldom climbed Monkey Butt Love. Its a cool sloping arete with a rad dyno to the lip.

Grady on War on Terror

Grady on Monkey Butt Love using his tall man beta

Alex using the standard dyno beta on Monkey Butt Love

New Five Ten Shoes

Metrorock held a shoe demo the other week and Dana was there showing off Five Ten's new shoe lineup. While I have tried many of Five Ten's new shoes over the last couple years, I have consistently gone back to the Moc, 5X, and Dragons. All these shoes have been around for a few years now (and in the case of the Moc, much more then that) and I have been happy none have fallen to Five Ten's different approach to shoe production and marketing (in with the new, out with the old). However, I have to say that this year was a bit different. I think Five Ten has really created a diverse set of climbing shoes with some of their best models ever.

Five Ten Supermoc:
This is essentially a trimmed down version of the classic Moc. I use my Moc for two things: thin cracks and gym climbing. The super Moc is better suited for bouldering and sport climbing. It has a very thin sole (think the old school Mantra S) and a nice fitting heel cup. The main complaint I have heard from people about the Moc is that it cannot heel hook. I tried heel hooking on many different type holds and was only able to pull it off once (on a move that also nearly pulled my Dragon off). This shoe is also extremely comfortable but remember to size down if you want to maintain a performance fit since it is unlined leather.


Five Ten Hornet:
When I asked Dana about this shoe he said it was designed for "steep limestone with small pockets and tufas." Wow, well that is pretty specific. But luckily this shoe performed amazingly well on a variety of terrains. I am a big fan of soft shoes and this shoe is essentially a cross of the Dragon and the new Super Moc; its a soft, thin, downturned shoe with an excellent heel cup. People always talk about pulling with your toes in downturned shoes but I have never be able to do that like I did with this shoe. I was able to keep my feet on the wall while using very small footholds on a roof that I was not able to do with any other shoe. Furthermore, the innovative lacing system aligns the natural arc of your foot into the shoe. No more torquing on your foot once you pull the shoe on to get your shoe to sit comfortably.

Five Ten Quantum
I was also impressed by this new shoe. It is a nice mix of the Anasazi Velcro and Dragon. A stiffer, lace-up shoe with a slight downturn and an excellent heel cup. Not to mention the purple makes it one of the best looking shoes I have ever seen.

Unfortenatly I did not get to try on the new Dean Potter shoe but it looks sick for offwidthing!

Farley - Sunday

Despite possibly inclement weather and a much smaller crew, Brayton and I met up with Matt and Josh for a short Farley session today. After warming up and coming close to War on Terror, a hard slab/mantle climb heading left from Speed of Life, we all got excited about Prince Paul. Using only a few pads (and some conveniently placed natural vines to anchor one), we were able to safely protect all but the very top of this stunning line. We had a great session working out the moves on this and everyone tried it in great ground up style. I think this climb has only seen one ascent, after heavy top rope rehearsal, and I think it would be very cool to do the second ascent ground up. After a bit of rain, we finished up on Scarab and Pterodactyl but with tired bodies and worn down skin, today proved to not be quite the day of sending that Saturday was.

Entering the crux of Prince Paul

Mid crux of Prince Paul

Farley - Saturday

Despite a few reluctant members, another large crew rallied to Farley from Boston on Saturday. Everyone psych was high and it proved to be a great day of sending. In addition to Dave Wetmore's list of sends, I also managed to climb Appetite for Destruction, Babies with Rabies, and The Wave. I have to admit that Appetite felt a step harder than the three double digit problems I have now completed at Farley but that might just be me. We also had a big session on Speed of Life and needless to say I am excited to try it more.

Brayton on Stereogram

Matt on Babies with Rabies

Farley

On Sunday a full Boston crew got out to Farley. In total there were probably around 10 people I knew at the crag with dozens more scattered throughout the forrest. Turns out everyone else had the same idea when they saw 60 degrees, sunny, and breezy as the forecast. I was able to quickly finish off Pipe Dreams today. This marks my second double digit problem in the last week. I did not climb since last Sunday and its nice to come off a short rest and still feel strong. Next up was Party Wolf. This climb is definitely a level up from the other hard compression problems at Farley. Max put in a proud effort on it and was able to send last second before he had to go. Both of us tried it from the ground up every time and it was cool to see someone climb something hard in such a good style. I will be back for this rig. At the end of the day I was able to get up Big, a cool V8 with one distinct crux. Overall a great day!

Alex on Pipe Dreams

Chris on Pipe Dreams

Back in New England

The last two days have yielded beautiful fall New England conditions. Chilly but comfortable and dry! The trees have begun turning and the colors are amazing. On Saturday, Max, Gavin, and I headed to Farley. It was my first time there and I was very excited. First of all, Speed of Life is amazing. I did not get on it since we did not have a ton of pads and I was not feeling my best. After warming up, I figured the moves to Pipe Dreams out but it was in the sun and I could not link it together. Next up was Stereogram. Both Gavin and I were able to put this one together. This was my first double digit boulder problem of 2010 and it was nice to realize I was in pretty good shape despite having not been climbing too much. Max and I worked on a compression project for a bit called Midsize Man. This rig is one of the most physical boulder problems I have ever seen. The beta is never the same and it comes down to trying really, really, really hard and refusing to let go. I also came close to Appetite for Destruction but by the end of the day was feeling pretty tired. Today, Max and I headed out to Great Barrington. We met up with some other people and set to work on the Speed boulder. Mark, an old friend of Max's, came as close as possible to Roses and Bluejays, falling off after matching the lip of the boulder. Next time man! I made some good progress on Something from Nothing and am excited to return.

Veterans with Vertigo

Before heading back to Boston, I knew that I needed to go and climb something bigger since I would be mostly sport climbing and bouldering in New England. I headed for the Black Canyon last Friday and roped up with my friend John Schaffer. John is one of the most bad ass climbers I know, having done over 50 Black Canyon routes. He was interested in doing a climb called Veterans with Vertigo, a Grade IV 5.11+ down the SOB Gully. John started us off with the plan of me taking the crux pitch and him taking the first (and harder) or the two R rated pitches. Pitch 2 was my first lead and there was very little information on the topo about it. Near the top was a long, unprotected traverse on less than ideal rock. The pitch felt like it deserved an R rating and knowing we had a couple pitches that actually got R higher up, both of us were curious to what would follow. Route finding was difficult and we moved slower then we were hoping to. By the time we reached the crux 6th pitch, the sun was baking the wall. I took the lead and got to the crux section before reading the movement totally wrong and falling. After a few attempts at working the beta out, I was able to fight my way to the belay ledge. John managed to follow the pitch cleanly in an even more powerful way then I did it. Very impressive! The two R rated pitches that followed turned out to not be so scary and we soon found ourselves on the rim. We considered bombing back down a gully and doing a second route but ended up deciding to call it a day. The Black Canyon remains my favorite place to climb in Colorado and I hope to get back there next spring.

Newlin Creek Adopt-a-Crag Day

So I just received the good news that an Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag day has been organized for Newlin Creek. As some of you know, I have gone back and forth about my feelings with Newlin and crowds, conservation, access, information and the like. Helping develop Newlin has been one of the defining climbing related aspects of my life. Regardless of the outcome of past events, Newlin is now part of the Front Range climbing circuit and the best thing we can do as a climbing community is do our best to treat it with the most respect and care we can. Whether you have lost track of how many times you have visited Newlin or have just swung by for a visit a few times, please come down and help out. We will primarily be reconstructing some trails along with removing any lingering trash. The Forrest Service will be meeting us at 9 AM on September 18th with tools and guidance at the trailhead. More info at Tojo Risen. See ya'll there!

Rumney

Yesterday I went up to Rumney with Nate. I came as close as I could of to sending without sending two of my projects. Fell on the last hard move of both Rhythm X and Riviera. It was the best conditions I have ever experienced at Rumney (~70 degrees, ~60% humidity) and things felt much better then other times I have climbed there. Can't wait for this fall. Heading back on Sunday to finish things up. Then its off to Colorado next weekend for the month of September.

Adirondacks Rock

This last weekend I got back out on some real rock. PSYCHED. Thanks for the motivation from good buddies Timo Gibson and Nate Popik. While the drive out took forever due to Friday afternoon traffic out of Boston (on a separate note: I have decided ~60% of New England traffic is self inflicted by the terrible drivers. It turns out when everyone drives like a d-bag, everyone gets places slower). We went to the Spider's Web on Saturday. After warming up, I gave Zabba two top rope burns. This thing is THE line at the cliff. An awesome crack leads to a tough boulder problem above your gear. Legit 13a trad. I would love to come back this fall and send this guy. Nate and I also worked Klu Klux Ken (12c). I flashed the route on TR but was not able to get send on lead. Once again, placing gear on the sharp end really does make climbing harder. In total we got 8 pitches in each and came away worked. The next day it was off to Poko. After a few easier routes, Nate and I decided to try a 5.12 that rarely (or at all) ever gets done. We simuled the first two pitches and I set off on the third (business) pitch. It turned out to be incredibly dirty and not without a few loose flakes. I brushed what I could and got about two thirds of the way up before losing motivation at a very sloppily reinforced plate that still had a lot of flex in it. Overall a good adventure but not a route worth returning to. All in all it was a great weekend. I got to see some old college buddies, do some climbing, and feel really old at a party. Good times.

Pawtuckaway

I went up to Pawtuckaway with Kyle and Britney. It was a bit warm for hard bouldering but we got a good amount of climbing in none the less. After a good warm up circuit, we tried Ride the Lightning. However, a number of holds were wet and we could not get it done. Kyle managed Terrorist after a few tries. We both did a cool arete called Vintage. We also attempted Halcyon a bit but quickly realized we could not grab the poor holds today. We then headed over to a different area and after a lot of shenanigans, were both able to do Leave it to Beaver. We checked out a cool arete thing close by that Kyle though was a project. Looks doable but hard on great rock with a committing finish up high. Psyched to return here in the cold.

Back at Rumney

I got back out today with Brayton to Rumney. We left Boston at 6 am so we could make it up to the cliff before it got too hot. Unfortunately, it was super humid this morning so despite cool temps, the rock did not feel great. After doing Waimea (5.10) as a warm up, I decided to run a second lap on it since it was so much fun. I then made progress on Riviera (5.13d), falling one move from the end of the hard climbing. This guy should go down quick when things feel better. Next, I quickly put together the moves on Charlie Don't Surf (13b) and should be able to link it together when its not in the sun. I then finished up the day refining beta and trying to link together some sections of the main goal, Parallel Universe (14a). If the weather cooperates, I will be back up next weekend for more. Below are two shots of the awesome rock at Rumney. Some of the best I have pulled on anywhere.

RUMNEY!

Brayton and I just got back from two days at Rumney. It was great to be pulling hard on great stone again and getting out has really brought my psych on rock climbing back. I have not been climbing outside much the last six months because of school. Having just moved to a new area I think has been a great thing because now everything is new again. I had fallen into a bad spot with Southern Colorado where all the things I had not done did not feel doable at all to me. Its like a whole new playground out here and I am ready to see all that there is to be had. No great sends this trip but the fitness is building and hopefully I can start taking some stuff down when it cools off. More, much more, to come.

Darron (I think, sorry) on Rhythm X (5.13b)

Cannon Cliff

On Sunday I got out to Cannon Cliff with fellow CC alumbs Nick and Hale. It had rained the day before so we did not get to finish any routes due to wetness at the top of the cliff. However, it was a great day out and it felt good to get back on real rock after almost a month off. My psych is returning in full force. Did a long milage day at Metrorock yesterday and am going to try and go big this weekend. Pawtuckaway and Rumney. More updates to come. I promiss.

Update

Hey all. Revolution is having a little photo contest thing and I though I would try my luck since I somehow went from three crash pads to no crash pads in the last six months. If you have a second, please "like" my photo to help my chances. In other news, I am heading up to New Hampshire to climb this weekend. Either Rumney or Cannon. Stay tuned.

Dream Canyon

Last Friday I headed up to Boulder for one last day of climbing on Colorado stone before heading east. I wanted to try China Doll, a route I had heard very good things about. I have to say, I was not disapointed. I met up with Chris and fellow CC alum Madeleine and we headed to the crag. We warmed up on some interesting routes to the left then got down to work. We each got some TR burns in before the line got hit by the baking sun. Chris looked very good on the extention and I would not be surprised if he ticked this as his first 5.14 (trad at that). I am psyched to train my endurance and try my luck at the first 5.13c pitch come September.

Me on a 12a to the left of China Doll (Photo: Madeleine Sorkin)

Same route again (Photo: Madeleine Sorkin)

Boston

The last two weeks have been a crazy few for me. I graduated from college and have now moved to Boston for a year long lab job dating rocks with radiogenic isotopes at MIT. I started work on Wednesday and still have a lot to learn but starting to get the hang of things. I have also started to find my way around Boston, now only getting slightly lost when I go places. The job has pretty flexible hours so I am every excited to check out all the New England has to offer. Time to spend the summer in the gym getting some endurance for Rumney. More to come.

Rifle

Hey again. Remember me, its Hayden. Hopefully in the next little bit I will be able to start posting more again. Two weeks ago, I went to Rifle for the first time. I was lucky to go with my good friends Noah, Tim and Chris. Chris is a walking guidebook so it was fun to be there with him. I have to say, for all the downsides (choss, crowds, assholes), the good climbing in Rifle is really, REALLY good. Despite not climbing routes much as of late, I managed to fight my way up a single 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, and 5.13 while in the canyon for two days. I was especially psyched on sending Eurotrash (5.13b). Having climbed as hard as I ever have on a rope on my first trip to Rifle while not in great shape feels like an accomplishment. Here are some photos from the Anti-Phil wall.

Sheep's Nose Project

On Wednesday I completed college! After a glass of champagne on the quad, Owen and I headed up to Sheep's Nose to try a line I spotted the week before. It begins with some steep compression moves followed by technical arete climbing. We were only able to try the start moves because it was blizzarding pretty hard but I think the line will go around V10. Hopefully I can get back out and try it before I leave Colorado.

Back on the Rocks

Today was a big day for me. I turned in my final copy of my thesis to the library for binding, I took my last test in college ever, and I went rock climbing outside for the second time in four days. Hopefully we school winding down (the last day is on Wednesday) I will be able to get out more often. Today I met Jon Glassberg and Ryan Silven up at the Pass. Jon quickly dispatched the Green Lantern for its 4th ascent (that I know of). I then showed them Daddy Fat Sacks, which we all decided was not to be pulled on in the warm temperatures. Next we walked up to the Gusher. Ryan and Jon quickly figured out the crux but not soon enough. Jon fell at the top out and decided his skin was too blown out to try anymore. We looked a few more things on the way out and then got some food at Cy's Drive-In once back in town.

Frey

Hey all. I hope a few of you out there still check this. I have been very busy with finishing up my college education. I turned my senior thesis in last week and it feels great to have accomplished something like that. The countless hours I spent in front of a computer screen got me a bit out of shape but I am getting back into it quickly. I managed to get out to Turkey Rocks the other weekend but besides that it has been a slow month of climbing.

Here are some photos courtesy of Tim Gibson from our trip to Patagonia this spring. After studying the regional geology of central Argentina for a month, we headed south and spent about a week in the northern end of Patagonia. We managed to get some amazing climbing in. This place is easily one of the most beautiful places I have ever been and the ease of access and abundance of climbing make it feel like an alpine cragging paradise. We climbed four granite walls or spires over the course of the three good days of weather we got. I have never experienced granite like this, its somewhere in between Squamish style cracks and Buttermilks style patina. Oh and did I mention there are monster sized featured boulders waiting to be developed. Enjoy.

At the base of Aguja Frey

Following pitch two up the center of Aguja Frey

Torre Principal (right) and La Vieja (left).

Bouldering below M2

Approaching La Tapia

Back again

Its been a long time! I spent 5 weeks in Argentina and then have been furiously trying to finish up my senior thesis. I will try and get some photos up from Frey, where Tim and I went climbing for spring break. Until then, enjoy a few of my Argentina shots on my other (read: non-climbing) blog.

Updates

I have been slow to post recently. I appologize. My right, index finger got slammed in a door two weeks ago and I lost the entire pad. I waited as patiently as I could until Saturday when I attempted to climb outside for the first time and split it right open. I am hoping to get outside a couple times in the next week but I will have to be very picky about what I get on. Besides that, I have been setting a bunch at the new gym in Colorado Springs, City Rock. It is a pretty amazing place and everyone in the Springs seems excited about some long rope walls. Next Monday I head off to Argentina for 5 weeks for a geology class and then a little adventuring. I will try to update before I leave but if not, there will be lots to share when I get back.

New Five Ten Website

Five Ten has completely overhauled their website and I have to say it looks great. The new site provides the viewer lots to experience and reason to return. Check it out here.

The Season

The Narc posted about this earlier today and after watching the first two episodes, I am hooked. The story is great, the filming top notch, and it is packed with shots from local areas around the Northwest, including Index and Gold Bar climbing and bouldering. Check it out. This seems like one of the best jobs I have seen of someone not just throwing action in your face but telling a interesting and compelling story too.

Video Night at SCC

This Saturday we have put a sick night of bouldering videos together by local climbers. Austin, Nick, and Alex will be showing footage from thier recent trip to Hueco. Byron will be showing Dickfist and Beatnuts. Then I will be showing a 12 minute video called the SoCo Chronicles. It features around a dozen of my first ascents along with a handful of other area classics from the Wet Mountaina and the South Platte. Oh yeah, and free beer, snacks, and slacklining.

Back Out in the Cold

Yesterday I met up with a larger crew then normally roams Southern Colorado in January. Everyone was psyched and the conditions were prime. I managed to send my long standing nemesis Walk Softly. Everyone agreed this was a toughie and it feels great to finally finish this rig off after trying it for three years. Keeping it stiff down here in the SoCo. After that, we went to work on the sit start. Spannuth and I both were able to climb into the stand of Walk Softly but could not link the bottom and top sections. I also made good progress on Austin's arete and both Ben and Jamie did well on William Shatner. I did not take my camera out as much as I should of but here are some nice pictures of Shatner.