Back at Index

Bryan and I started our day at the Camp Serene boulder, another erratic off by itself in the woods. There, both of us did the immaculate Chemical Imbalance (V8). Next, we attempted to climb on J-High, a perfect looking river polished V7, but found only its top out holds not submerged by the high flowing, spring Skynomish River. Unfortenatly this was also the case with my River Boulders Arete project. The main attraction today was Midnite. I was able to just tap the lip but need to have a bit more height to actually stick. However, Byran killed it, topping out in three tries and making it look easy while doing so. I wish I had more free time in Washington because there are surely more moster blocks hiding in the dense forest to be found in the Skynomish Valley between Goldbar and Index.

Raw Squamish Footage Part II

Here is another video from Squamish. This time it is me climbing the low but classic Undertow (V7/8). This is an awesome problem and I had never even seen before this trip. It has some of the more pure slopers in the forest, as opposed to the Squamish norm of grainy, crytaline holds that you open-hand crimp on. HD footage here.

Leavenworth and Index

My dad had a meeting at the Sleeping Lady in Leavenworth today and I was able to bum a ride up there and do some climbing. Due to our 5:30 am departure from Seattle, I got some reasonable conditions and did Fridge Left, Center, and Right (V8, V4, V4) quickly. I headed over to Droppin' the Kirshbaum (V10) next and, after redeciphering the tricky sequence, had some good goes before my skin gave way to the rock. I rest of the morning I fooled around on some moderates in the nearly 90 degree sun. We drove back to Seattle on Highway 2 and I got a chance to stop at Midnite, a great new problem from Joel Cambell in Index. I qucikly figured a sequence out that worked for me up but fell about 8 inches short on the dyno to the lip. For those of you who enjoy my Washington updates, you should check out Kelly Sheridan's blog NW Granite. Kelly and crew are responsible for nearly all the developement of new problems in Washington and his blog will always be at least six months ahead of anything you will see here. Below are stome photos on me on the opening moves of Midnite and you can also check Kelly's video of Kyle doing the problem here.

Raw Squamish Footage

Here is some footage of me climbing The Weasel (V8). This is an awesome problem that left me missing the pad and on the ground on the very last move to the jug a few time. After some rad, intro compression moves, one must do the crux, which involves driving into a wrap and stopping your momentum with the palm on your hand, all without having your heel pick. This problem epitomizes climbing in Squamish: intricate, technical, and heel hook intensive. HD version here.

Long Weekend in Canada

On Friday, I headed up to Squamish for a long weekend of climbing. I had two goals: to climb The Chief and climb five boulder problems V7 or harder that I had never done before. I was able to succed on both goals, climbing Rock On (7 pitches, 5.10) into the Squamish Buttress (7 pitches, 5.10) and Undertow (V7/8), Loose Change (V7), The Weasel (V8), El Camino (V7), and This Monkey's Gone to Heaven (V7). We had beautiful weather and I was able to connect with some old and new friends. Then on Monday, I stopped in Vancouver to see TV on the Radio play in Stanley Park. They put on an awesome show, full of energy, and with spot on sound.

The North Walls of the Chief

Doug leading the clean third pitch of Birds of Prey (5.10)

Flower Video

Check my short video of Bryan Boyko flashing Flower (V8) at the Index River Boulders. My Dad's computer does not any programs to edit the footage so it is the raw file of the send. Check the HD here and enjoy. I am headed to Squamish tomorrow for four days with the goal of doing some sweet boulders and climbing the Chief. Updates when I return.

A Long Overdue Return to Index

Bryan and I started our day out at the River Boulders. We went straight to Chutzpah (V11), which I had tried a bit last summer but was never able to stick the crux first move. I stuck the move twice today, the second time finishing the problem. Next, we headed to Flower (V8). Bryan flashed the problem and then I sent a few tries later. Then it was off to Hagakure (V12), one of Washington's finest. Bryan came very close from the start, making the very difficult and key foot move just before the throw to the lip. Finally, we tried a new problem of Johnny G's up a blunt arete (V-very hard) with awful holds and even worse feet. After about an hour, Bryan and I gave up trying to stick the first move.

Video still from Flower. Video to come of Bryan sending.

Bryan on Hagakure

Me on Hagakure

Bryan on Johnny's Arete

Bryan on Johnny's Arete

Little Si

Today, Bret and I went up to Little Si. For those who have not been there, it is a huge wall of metamorphosed sedimentary rock (?) that has a great concentration of hard sport climbs. The routes that go to the top of the wall are full value rock climbs, most of which you barely get back to the ground with a 70 meter rope. The climbing varies a lot from very sustained to bouldery. Bret had a killer day, not taking one fall and completing his project Porn Star (5.13d) and also sending Californication (5.13a), onsiting Hydrophobia (5.12d) and repeating Technorigine (5.12c) and Rainy Day Woman (5.12a). I just wanted to get back into the flow of routes after cutting my finger and gain some endurance. After not being on these routes since high school, I was able to retro-flash Rainy Day Woman and Technorigine, and then actually flashed Bust A Move (5.12a), along with doing some awesome 5.11s. Overall it was a great day and Bret and I plan to return next Wednesday for more sports action.

The pleasant approach through the Washington rain forrest.

Bret repeating Technoriginie (5.12c)

Bret nearing the anchors on his send of Porn Star (5.13d)

Bret flashing Hydrophobia (5.12d)

Boulder Canyon Epic and Clear Creek Sport Climbing

School finished on Wednesday and I am out for the summer! Well, until June 8th, when I start my three summer classes I am taking at Colorado College so that I can take fall semster off to just climb and still graduate on time. On Thursday, I headed up to Boulder to meet my friend Ander, who has recently gotten the itch to be a sport climber. We headed to Boulder Canyon so I could try a few blocks before roping up. However, before even attempting to climb I cut my right, middle finger on an 8 inch cooking knife that was sitting in my trunk, not in its case. It turned out to be a very bad cut and any sort of bouldering, especially on granite, was out of the question so we moved on to Clear Creek. We headed to the Primo Wall and warmed up on what appeared to be a nice moderate. It turned out we got on Quarts Sports (5.12b), which I nearly flashed but ended up just leaving giant blood stains all over the top of. I played ropegun for Ander, as he got a couple pitches in. Ander then moved onto Its Not Nice to Fool with Mother Nature (5.12c) and after figuring all the beta out, I burgled him and flashed the route, which was significantly less fingery than the first route and therefore did not reopen my wound. We ended the day at the New River Wall so Ander could work out some of the moves on Sonic Youth. Despite a frustratingly silly injury, it was a nice day out on the rock. Now, I am back in Washington and will hopefully be out on this states perfect granite by Tuesday. Updates to come.

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Overdue Updates

       Its been a bit but I have been sick this last week and feeling very feeble. Last Sunday, Nate, Tim and I went south to try John Sherman's Conviction, a 5.12 crack.   I had come very close in the past but did not have great burns on it.  Tim, however, killed the line in great style to end the day well.  

       Then this Friday, we had our "Spring into Access" slideshow at the Sport Climbing Center.  It turned out to be a huge success.  We had over 100 people come out to see pictures, win some raffle prizes, and drink beer and I would guess we raised around 700 or 800 dollars for the Access Fund.  We plan on doing this event even bigger and better next year.  

       Today, Byron and I went up to Elevenmile to meet up a huge crew.  I actually think this is the largest session that has occurred in Southern Colorado that was not associated with Justin Jaeger.  Even he would have been proud of the 10ish pads we were rolling with.  Matt Wilder crushed Anger Management (V10/11) in a couple goes.  He got some good video and I am sure he will post on his blog soon.  Then Ben Schmitt finished off a long standing project left of Only Entertainment.  It involves a V8 or V9 dyno into a 5.13.  Ben has tried the dyno on and off for over a year.  He convinced me to give it a try and after I figured out some key body placement beta, Ben was able to stick the move and soon after send the route.  We decided to call it 5.14a, partially to try and get some other people to try it.  I got good HD video of both Tim's send of Conviction and Ben's send of his new route and if all goes well, they both should be on MVM soon.