Sunday, May 10, 2009

Overdue Updates

       Its been a bit but I have been sick this last week and feeling very feeble. Last Sunday, Nate, Tim and I went south to try John Sherman's Conviction, a 5.12 crack.   I had come very close in the past but did not have great burns on it.  Tim, however, killed the line in great style to end the day well.  
       Then this Friday, we had our "Spring into Access" slideshow at the Sport Climbing Center.  It turned out to be a huge success.  We had over 100 people come out to see pictures, win some raffle prizes, and drink beer and I would guess we raised around 700 or 800 dollars for the Access Fund.  We plan on doing this event even bigger and better next year.  
       Today, Byron and I went up to Elevenmile to meet up a huge crew.  I actually think this is the largest session that has occurred in Southern Colorado that was not associated with Justin Jaeger.  Even he would have been proud of the 10ish pads we were rolling with.  Matt Wilder crushed Anger Management (V10/11) in a couple goes.  He got some good video and I am sure he will post on his blog soon.  Then Ben Schmitt finished off a long standing project left of Only Entertainment.  It involves a V8 or V9 dyno into a 5.13.  Ben has tried the dyno on and off for over a year.  He convinced me to give it a try and after I figured out some key body placement beta, Ben was able to stick the move and soon after send the route.  We decided to call it 5.14a, partially to try and get some other people to try it.  I got good HD video of both Tim's send of Conviction and Ben's send of his new route and if all goes well, they both should be on MVM soon.

2 comments:

sock hands said...

DAMN YOU WILDER SENDING ALL MY MULTI-DAY PROJECTS IN A 'FEW GOES' !!!

it'll be good to see video of anger management with the non hahn freakshow beta!

sounds like you fools had a great day.

nice!

hayden said...

his beta was very straight forward. he did exactly what i have always done but was actually able to lock off the right hand hold well enough to hit the arete/lip with control.

and consider this. matt did anger management in less tires than it took him to figure out how to get half way up the corridor arete project. turns out that thing is hard after all.