Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Coquibus Longs Vaux

My plan for my last day in Font was to climb at Coquibus Longs Vaux on the way out of the Fontainebleau area. However, we woke up today to everything being soaked and climbing was not looking very likely. This area was on the way to Normandy so I convinced my parents to take a look anyways. Coquibus Longs Vaux is a very small area of Font that would likely see little to no traffic if it were not for the Fata Morgana bloc, a large 45 degree roof with a plethora of hard climbs located on it. After a little bit of wandering I stumbled upon the boulder only to find a thin layer of frost and dew covering both the underside and topout. I was impressed by the boulder, which includes Dave Graham's Satan I Helvete 8b, in my opinion the best looking line on the bloc, and Fata Morgana 8a. The lines past this do much less for my tastes, most of which make links or add sit starts between these two lines., The others including Dai Koyamada's Angama 8c, Sebastian Frigault's Satan I Helvete Assis 8c, Fata I Helvete 8b/8b+ and Fata Morgana Assis 8b. The possibilities would do even the Centaur proud! After a bit it was time to move on and we walked back towards the car.

The bloc with Satan I Helvete climbing from the small rail to the left at the bottom of the prominent crack. It climbs up the crack, busting out to the arete and then to the top. Fata Morgana goes from the same rail to the furthest chalked pocket out right.

Hand print in the frost.


3 comments:

sock hands said...

dopeness on tap.

sock hands said...

note: i just updated the 2008 wishlist before we kick this thing off.

hayden said...

will not be back to dorm room afterall until 20th of january. straight to bishop. will send full list upon return to CO