Saturday, December 22, 2007

Day One in Font, Bas Cuvier

I arrived in Font yesterday evening after flying from Denver and then meeting my parents outside of Paris. This morning we headed to Bas Cuvier, probably THE most classic area in Fontainebleau. I checked out a few problems I had tried two years ago and then a handful of new ones. I did La Charcuterie, a very cool 6c+, which was a climb that had baffled me last time I tried it. I also worked La Ballance, a very classic sloper 7c+ problem but could not manage to do the last move. After some tries on L'aerodynamic, a cool 7c jump start problem, I hiked around to find a couple of problems I had seen pictures of but were not in the guide book. I found both of the main ones I wanted to, Neverland and Imothep, which each climb some of the more rad shaped boulders out there. Neverland turned out to be one of the most confusing problems I have ever tried and I was only able to figure out the moves at the end of the thing. Imothep did not have a landing suited well for one pad so I ended up not trying it. So after a day of climbing here is what I have concluded: Ute Pass does not prepare you for open-handed slopers, jet lag is no good, big french meals are amazing but dont lend themselves to helping you climb, and Font is still and always will be one of the best climbing areas in the world. The first photo is L'aerodynamic, the second Infidele, and the last two La Balance.




2 comments:

Unknown said...

that's what I'm talking about, fuckin' sweet!!!!!!!!!!!

sock hands said...

castlewood prepares one perfect for this style.... the similarities between the rock is uncanny.





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