Tuesday, February 5, 2008

The Horseshoe Stratler

This is THE project of Ute Pass, if not Southern Colorado.  It has been attempted for over 10 years with a few good attempts by a handful of people, but no one has ever gotten exceptionally close to this one.  At first it looks easy, two bucket jugs separated by two crimps in a seam.  But you realize quickly that this one is mighty deceiving.  This was the very first problem that I ever saw at Ute Pass, and will probably be the last I ever climb.  Tim and me wandered upon it on our first visit and instantly got psyched, only to realize after an our of not getting past the first move that it may have been more difficult than we originally thought.  The beta has not even been fully worked out, with at least three solid methods that could yield a send.  Nick Anderson has gotten close by grabbing the lower, and better, of the two crimps with the left and locking off the gaston to the second crimp but he has not been able to roll out of it to the top.  Scott Hann, while never having actually tried the problem, had a dream about it and thought up some beta that turned out to be surprisingly plausible.  One must grab the start effectively like an undercling pocket and lock off to go right to the higher seam crimp then roll out to the jug.  I have gotten this upper crimp solidly before but never been able to pull out of it.  The third method is grabbing the lower crimp with the right hand and one arming off of it and lunging to the finish.  This may sound the most difficult but I have gotten the closest by this method.  Below are a few pictures of Ben and Max trying the beta that Nick uses.




3 comments:

sock hands said...

when i did it last august, i just used my typical trick: i dynoed from the start to the finish and called it good.

oh yeah, the crimps are 'off'

sorry.

Unknown said...

2:15 pm........the spot........green lantern.....hilltop porjects........Stratler,,,,

Mannphoto said...

looks dope boys.