Monday, March 10, 2008

More from the Nascar Bloc

The V8 arete on the Nascar boulder.  It starts on a semi-awkward crimp rail and then moves up the arete with pinches and crimps.  The problem has one sharp crimp which did not feel very good to grab after baking in the sun all afternoon but besides that climbs very nice.

This boulder is extremely fun to play on but a few of the lines are a little contrived.  The boulder features a line of slopers to a good jug.  If you exit here it is V5.  Then it changes to a line of crimps.  Half way through the crimps is a V7 exit using some very interesting body positioning.  If you continue on to the next arete (the one Ander is on in the first photo) and exit out it then the problem goes at around V9/10 and if you continue out a black streak to the right of the arete it is V11/12. 
 
A close up of the immaculate volcanic rock present in the Ponderosa area.  I meant for the hand to come out in focus but it turned out so that you still can get a sense of the texture.

Ander nearing the V7 exit of the Nascar block traverse.  There is some amazing beta involved in this climb to make it easier.  Half way out the slopers on the first part of the climb I do a 180 and start climbing to the jug with my feet in front of me using cool toe and heel hooks.  Then once you reach the jug there is a nice bat hang rest.  From there, a nice bicycle, as seen above, is used to keep the tension before gaining a sidepull to pull through to the lip.

5 comments:

Unknown said...

top photo of ander is bad ass! Puttin' in work son!

sock hands said...

i regret to inform that i followed you down there w/ lights off all secret agent style, flashed all those variations via mad campus power sneaker pimping, then peed in hayden and ander's super hippy organic go-gurt before departing to beat mad dogs and high fives/makeouts w/ my lady.

all in all, it was an ok night, but only cause i was on lithium to keep my mood positive. otherwise, it'd just be so-so compared with my standard friday or saturday night fare.

all that said, i could not repeat byron's one handed slab-o-doom.

go figure. his shit's legit, yo.

sock hands said...

also: going to 8spray.spew RIGHT DAMN NOW to check on ander's sendage.

booo hiss hayden. booo hiss.

sock hands said...

ok, back from there. word, ander!

HAYDEN, YOU SUCK!

please keep a word document of sends and forward to me on a quarterly-basis.

or rage kill on your head w/ falling timbers in the woods of the creek. i summon that shit I CONTROL THAT JAZZ I CAN BRING THE FURY OF THE WINDFORCE FORTH ON YOUR HIPPY LOCKS IF YOU DO NOT COMPLY.


yes i actually billed a ton of hours today. now, i return to prime efficency. cha ching mo fo

CHA CHING

Unknown said...

FUCKIN' CLASSIC jj AFFAIR!