I was talking to Jaeger on the phone the other day and realized that he had no idea about the Colorado College block break. So before talking about the climbing, I will explain why Colorado College is the best school for climbers. CC had what is called the "Block Plan" where you take one class at a time for 3 and a half weeks, and often have class for up to 6 hours a day. But after working hard for a block, you get a five day weekend. There are 8 blocks a year and after each there is at least a five day break.
So this block break, Nathan, Tim, Dane, Sam and I loaded up my car and headed west. We spent Wednesday at Rifle, which I now know I will have to return to. Then continued on to Indian Creek for two days of gear plugging. After just those two days, I do not think I will be bouldering to much anytime soon. Plans have already changed from Joe's to the Creek for the next block break. I climbed a lot of classic 5.10s and sent my first 5.11 and 5.12 on gear.
Next, we headed to Castle Valley and climbed the stellar Honeymoon Chimney (5.11+) on the Priest. After hearing from multiple parties that had bailed for various reasons pertaining to the poor protection and gear on this climb, Nathan, Tim and I were a little psyched out. Nathan and Tim put up the first pitch (130 feet of offwidth to squeeze chimney with two bolts and some chalkstones). Then Tim had a great lead on the 2nd pitch (steaming with a piton and a few good cam placements) and I lead the amazing full body stem (think being horizontal with both hands on one freestanding tower and both feet on another looking down 200 feet of open chimney below you) to hard face climbing that is the 3rd pitch. The 4th turned out to be victory hand jams and fingers to the top of the tower. We finished the trip up by camping at Colorado National Monument and going to the local Bull Rodeo in Fruita.
Nathan on the beautiful Coyne Crack 5.11+, just one of dozens of amazing climbs at the Supercrack Buttress.
Coyne Crack again
Nathan on Finger in a Light Socket 5.11+
Me on Coyne Crack
Sunset at the Creek
2 comments:
i really really hate to say it, but i would definitely do a weekend at indian creek sometime before i die. coyne crack looks like one of the few lines i legitimately feel compelled by via photos.
that and exasperator crack on squamish's chief.
no foolin' or sneaky mocking of you... that looks dope.
makes the souflands crack look super retarded and unworthy, just as i had previously thought. suspicions confirmed!
but yes, indian creek look killa. rifle is super lame.
i climbed there for 3 hours and one would be hard-pressed to get me psyched for any more... and that's coming from someone who has climbed at morrison about 30 times.
30 times my ass - ha!
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