Block Break

With a lack of psych I decided to spend block break doing something a little different.  I still went climbing but it was the first block break I spent not focused on bouldering or with any specific goals.  Here is a brief rundown of my days:

Thursday:  Tim and Noah planned on climbing Jah Man on the Sister Superior tower so I was on my own.  I tried Return of the Jedi (V9/10) at Big Bend for half and hour, did all the moves but left once the sun hit it.  Next, I drove into Moab and purchased a 9 dollar kiddie pool at the hardware store.  This thing runs an amazing five feet in diameter and 13 inches tall.  My plan was to cross the Colorado River and check out some new bouldering on opposite side of the canyon.  To say the least, this was poorly planned out but it was hot out and chosen crossing was slow water so it was at least not dangerous.  My oars were two branches I found just before pushing out.  About five feet into my crossing I punctured the upper of three inflatable rings that make up the side wall of the pool.  I was down to about 8 inches of raft between me and the water.  Surprisingly I made it across fairly easily but very pumped from the paddling. I spent the next couple hours exploring the hillside, climbing many moderates on excellent rock.  I found a few things that would be harder or taller but declined trying them by myself with one pad.  Some of the things were likely first ascents others clearly had signs of being climbed or attempted before.  I did find one boulder that would be very hard and tall with a perfect line of small crimps going up an arete then moving to the face.  V10 or harder and 30+ feet over tallus anyone?  The crossing took a little longer going back but was overall uneventful. 

Friday:  Mike and I climbed Holier than Thou on The Nuns.  It is a 3 pitch climb up the craziest calcite features ever.  The first pitch is 130 feet and 11 bolts where you are grabbing perfect edges, tufas, stalagtites, and underclings ever.  Imagine throwing Spain onto a desert tower.  Overall impression: climbing of the highest caliber but with to much involved to make it happen.  Hiking, gear, hanging belays, rappels, helmets, etc.  Give me a pad and chalk and some freedom of movement.

Saturday:  Tim and I climbed a route up Lighthouse Tower, above Big Bend.  It was a 5.10 that where I found many heel hooks, mantles, and kneebars that made the awkward crack sections very cool.  Standing on top of the tower looking at the river is a very cool experienced improved upon by not seeing any other parties all day.

Sunday:  Tim, Noah and I went to the Ninja Training Center today.  Recently featured on Momentum, this is the home of Potter's Zen Garden (5.13ish).  The place is an amazing setting and very different from other places I have climbed in the Moab region.  The rock however leaves room for some improvement.  Zen Garden climbs out the best section of rock and is by and large very solid and not sandy.  However, some of the boulder problems use edges that just will not clean up.  I could not do the crux moves but would be interested in returning for another attempt.  

I also put in two other random 30-60 minute sessions on Return of the Jedi.  At each one I feel just before the final move to the finishing jug.  Despite the slight contrivance of the line, this problem climbs exceedingly well.  Better than many at Big Bend.  It was never too hot but I clearly did not have the required endurance that the line beckoned for.  Maybe another time.