Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Adirondacks Rock

This last weekend I got back out on some real rock. PSYCHED. Thanks for the motivation from good buddies Timo Gibson and Nate Popik. While the drive out took forever due to Friday afternoon traffic out of Boston (on a separate note: I have decided ~60% of New England traffic is self inflicted by the terrible drivers. It turns out when everyone drives like a d-bag, everyone gets places slower). We went to the Spider's Web on Saturday. After warming up, I gave Zabba two top rope burns. This thing is THE line at the cliff. An awesome crack leads to a tough boulder problem above your gear. Legit 13a trad. I would love to come back this fall and send this guy. Nate and I also worked Klu Klux Ken (12c). I flashed the route on TR but was not able to get send on lead. Once again, placing gear on the sharp end really does make climbing harder. In total we got 8 pitches in each and came away worked. The next day it was off to Poko. After a few easier routes, Nate and I decided to try a 5.12 that rarely (or at all) ever gets done. We simuled the first two pitches and I set off on the third (business) pitch. It turned out to be incredibly dirty and not without a few loose flakes. I brushed what I could and got about two thirds of the way up before losing motivation at a very sloppily reinforced plate that still had a lot of flex in it. Overall a good adventure but not a route worth returning to. All in all it was a great weekend. I got to see some old college buddies, do some climbing, and feel really old at a party. Good times.


KHS said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
KHS said...

Yo Hayden,

In response to your question, I've never been to the 'dacks. Sounds and looks awesome though. I spent most of my New England climbing time at Rumney or bouldering in the woods near Dartmouth, where there are actually some world-class granite blocks. Let me know if you'll be spending much time in the area and I'll try to give you beta or hook you up with someone for a tour.

hayden said...

Thanks for writing back Kelly. I think I will be making it back up to the dacks this fall but probably not to boulder. I would be interested in checking out some classic blocs in New Hampshire (sorry, I think I said middlebury the other night even though I knew you were an ivy boy). I will let you know if I am trying to head that way. I'll be back in Washington for a week in November. I am hoping for some dry, cold weather. That new climb built to last looks awesome.