On Tuesday, Ben and I went to Elevenmile to try the center project on the Nathan's Couch boulder. This is one of the better lines I have found in recent months and I was psyched to give it some good burns since I was feeling very fresh having taken Sunday off and only climbing a bit on Monday. After figuring out a better foot placement for one of the hard moves, I feel off on the last hold below the lip from the start, which is well past the crux where the problem is only in the V5 range. Overall, the guy will end up being around V9 I think. After that, Ben and I headed down to a sharp arete that Ben was psyched on. Ben put up a nice V4 line on the left side of the arete (tentatively called The Loveseat) and I added a line moving out the right side of the arete at around V5 called The Recliner. Photos below:
Ben uses a odd drop knee to do the first crux move on the problem. I found that this set me up poorly for the next difficult move and instead use a high left foot and lock off the right crimp.
The hardest single move requires one of maintain body tension to reach out right to a good dish as static as possible.
The start of The Loveseat on the Ben's Couch boulder.
The Loveseat continued...
Ben, who could not span the long reach I did that kept my body on the right side of the arete during The Recliner opted to climb the start of The Loveseat and then move right into The Recliner.
2 comments:
did you finish the nine banger on the couch blokk ?????? i want to try soon. yesh!
no sends of any of the three obvious lines on nathan's couch. might need to try the mantle on a rope for the center line. weather in the so co is shit right now though.
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