Wednesday, January 23, 2008

The Fat Sacks

The weather was a little warmer today so I decided to do my afternoon petrology lab tonight and go up to the pass.   Byron and I got up there at around 2:30 and met Gatzke and Ander.  They were working the prow but quickly moved over to the tojo face as the temps began to fall.   I warmed up for a while, down climbing into the top out of Daddy Fat Sacks to remove the snow, dry the holds, and chalk them up.  My first go I stuck the first big, hard move but too far to the left and fell coming in.  I actually tried to take a reasonable rest, which ended up being about 10 minutes, and on my second go of the day sent.  The moves got a little desperate at the end, but I tried to hold everything together and hoped that I would not break anything.  Trying to keep the psych up, we headed over the the Bloody Arete.  I was able to slap at the second hold, which is by far the crux move, but could not stick.  The temps were quickly getting too cold to climb so I decided to repeat the stand to refresh my memory.  Did it to the jugs but decided to wait on repeating the sketchy topout for the send.  Hopefully the weather will stick with us and we can have some good conditions this weekend.

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