Sheep's Nose Project

On Wednesday I completed college! After a glass of champagne on the quad, Owen and I headed up to Sheep's Nose to try a line I spotted the week before. It begins with some steep compression moves followed by technical arete climbing. We were only able to try the start moves because it was blizzarding pretty hard but I think the line will go around V10. Hopefully I can get back out and try it before I leave Colorado.

Back on the Rocks

Today was a big day for me. I turned in my final copy of my thesis to the library for binding, I took my last test in college ever, and I went rock climbing outside for the second time in four days. Hopefully we school winding down (the last day is on Wednesday) I will be able to get out more often. Today I met Jon Glassberg and Ryan Silven up at the Pass. Jon quickly dispatched the Green Lantern for its 4th ascent (that I know of). I then showed them Daddy Fat Sacks, which we all decided was not to be pulled on in the warm temperatures. Next we walked up to the Gusher. Ryan and Jon quickly figured out the crux but not soon enough. Jon fell at the top out and decided his skin was too blown out to try anymore. We looked a few more things on the way out and then got some food at Cy's Drive-In once back in town.

Frey

Hey all. I hope a few of you out there still check this. I have been very busy with finishing up my college education. I turned my senior thesis in last week and it feels great to have accomplished something like that. The countless hours I spent in front of a computer screen got me a bit out of shape but I am getting back into it quickly. I managed to get out to Turkey Rocks the other weekend but besides that it has been a slow month of climbing.

Here are some photos courtesy of Tim Gibson from our trip to Patagonia this spring. After studying the regional geology of central Argentina for a month, we headed south and spent about a week in the northern end of Patagonia. We managed to get some amazing climbing in. This place is easily one of the most beautiful places I have ever been and the ease of access and abundance of climbing make it feel like an alpine cragging paradise. We climbed four granite walls or spires over the course of the three good days of weather we got. I have never experienced granite like this, its somewhere in between Squamish style cracks and Buttermilks style patina. Oh and did I mention there are monster sized featured boulders waiting to be developed. Enjoy.

At the base of Aguja Frey

Following pitch two up the center of Aguja Frey

Torre Principal (right) and La Vieja (left).

Bouldering below M2

Approaching La Tapia

Back again

Its been a long time! I spent 5 weeks in Argentina and then have been furiously trying to finish up my senior thesis. I will try and get some photos up from Frey, where Tim and I went climbing for spring break. Until then, enjoy a few of my Argentina shots on my other (read: non-climbing) blog.

Updates

I have been slow to post recently. I appologize. My right, index finger got slammed in a door two weeks ago and I lost the entire pad. I waited as patiently as I could until Saturday when I attempted to climb outside for the first time and split it right open. I am hoping to get outside a couple times in the next week but I will have to be very picky about what I get on. Besides that, I have been setting a bunch at the new gym in Colorado Springs, City Rock. It is a pretty amazing place and everyone in the Springs seems excited about some long rope walls. Next Monday I head off to Argentina for 5 weeks for a geology class and then a little adventuring. I will try to update before I leave but if not, there will be lots to share when I get back.

New Five Ten Website

Five Ten has completely overhauled their website and I have to say it looks great. The new site provides the viewer lots to experience and reason to return. Check it out here.

The Season

The Narc posted about this earlier today and after watching the first two episodes, I am hooked. The story is great, the filming top notch, and it is packed with shots from local areas around the Northwest, including Index and Gold Bar climbing and bouldering. Check it out. This seems like one of the best jobs I have seen of someone not just throwing action in your face but telling a interesting and compelling story too.

Video Night at SCC

This Saturday we have put a sick night of bouldering videos together by local climbers. Austin, Nick, and Alex will be showing footage from thier recent trip to Hueco. Byron will be showing Dickfist and Beatnuts. Then I will be showing a 12 minute video called the SoCo Chronicles. It features around a dozen of my first ascents along with a handful of other area classics from the Wet Mountaina and the South Platte. Oh yeah, and free beer, snacks, and slacklining.

Back Out in the Cold

Yesterday I met up with a larger crew then normally roams Southern Colorado in January. Everyone was psyched and the conditions were prime. I managed to send my long standing nemesis Walk Softly. Everyone agreed this was a toughie and it feels great to finally finish this rig off after trying it for three years. Keeping it stiff down here in the SoCo. After that, we went to work on the sit start. Spannuth and I both were able to climb into the stand of Walk Softly but could not link the bottom and top sections. I also made good progress on Austin's arete and both Ben and Jamie did well on William Shatner. I did not take my camera out as much as I should of but here are some nice pictures of Shatner.

Batman and Abstraction Video

Here is a short little video of two problems in Leavenworth, Washington. I thought I had lost this footage until yesterday when I found it on a random thumb drive. I climb Batman (V8) and Bryan Boyko climbs Abstraction (V11). Abstraction is one of those very unique blocs that is suspended between other boulders in a talus field. I was able to climb this line just after Bryan and it is still one of my favorite in Leavenworth. Enjoy.

Milky Dreams

Owen Anderson got the first ascent today of a cool crimp line a few minutes up Highway 24 from Ute Pass. He named it Milky Dreams and we think V9 sounds about right. The line is great, right up the center of a large block. Unfortenatly, I split my tip and will have to wait a bit before repeating this sharp gem of a climb.

The line starts matched on a good incut where Max's right hand is.

Me almost sticking the crux second move. The difficulty revolves around perching on a very poor foot and catching a crimp before swinging out from the wall.

Clear Creek Canyon

Today I took a rare excursion to the north. We started our day off at the New River Wall. After a good warm up and some not so good burns on Dark Waters, we headed back to 268. We made the death march up to Stanley Kubrick. After a lot of failed effort, Nick and I were both able to put the climb together. Getting it done back to back and the end of the day felt nice, not to mention the nice feeling of finishing up a hard boulder problem in a day.

Cold, Cold Southern Colorado

It has been sunny but cold in Southern Colorado. Today, Kieffer, Julia, Ben and I headed south to seek some quality stone out. It has been a bit since I climbed outside and it felt nice. Overall, a good day with friends.

Nick's Trailside Sloper Problem (still to be named)

Austin's Side Canyon Arete (also still to be named)

Playing with my flash

A large ice waterfall above Austin's arete

Bobba Fett Arete

Today I went up to Ute Pass with Byron and his cousin Chris. We met up with Nick and Than and after some delay decided to try an old project of mine. I had dubbed it the Bobba Fett Arete but never been able to figure it out by myself. The group psych came together today and Than managed the first ascent of this very cool line. It starts left hand on a crimp and right gastoning a sloper about a foot to the right, both about head height. Than decided to stick with my old name and we think it is probably around V8.

Evilution

Here are a couple of photos that my friend Brian Sweeny took of me trying Evilution. Despite getting through the first crux many times, I could not put the middle of this rig together. Next trip I will have to try it at the start of the day instead of last...

Goldbar

Today Owen and I made the trek up to Goldbar. It was a nice day and everything was dry. We warmed up and I was able to repeat Twisted (V10) and the Rubix Cube (V9). I came very close to also getting back up Equinox but could not manage it. We spent most of our day at Lighten Up (V9). A large amount of work had been put into the landing since I tried it last and it was much less scary. I stuck the crux move in isolation and came very close to latching the same hold from the start. Guess I will have to try it in six months again like usual. I also put some effort into the newly done Positive Vibrations, which was fun and interesting but also very hard feeling. I probably will not get back out until January 5th or so when I am back in Colorado Springs. Until then.

Bret Johnston gets a blog

My good friend Bret just created a blog to chronicle his travles. He will be in Bishop until just after the first of the year and should have some good updates when he gets back. Check it here.

Bishop

I arrived back in Seattle for the holidays last night. I have been in Bishop since my last post. I will write a bit about my trip there in the next couple days, but for now I will just share a few photos.

Kyle on the Mandala

Max on Evilution

Bret on Green Wall Essential

Saigon boulder by night

Big Bend

After a long hiatus from real rock, I am back on the road. I spent the last day and a half at Big Bend. For the size of the area, this is one of the best places on can go, especially in the winter. My primary goal was to work on Hellbelly. I had two long sessions on it and came away with still not having done all the moves. I am already planning a return visit in January for another round with this prize line. In other news, I did manage to get to the top of two V10s today. The first was Return of the Jedi, a low traverse that has surprising fun movement. I then polished off Big Horn Beaver, an amazing upwards rising sloper battle. I came very close to sending early in the morning but had to wait until the sun went down (and the rock to cool off) to hold the tension of the crux from the start. Tomorrow I will be in Red Rocks to check out the bouldering of Black Velvet Canyon, before Bishop on Friday.

Castleton Tower creating its own weather

A snowy and cold north side of Big Bend

Blurry self-portrait on Big Horn Beaver

Back at Last

I have been traveling for a while now and have finally settled into Colorado Springs for a couple days. I will be leaving again on Monday to Moab, Red Rocks, then Bishop. Very excited. I have been training a bunch to try and get some fitness back and am starting to feel good again. Today Max and I headed up to a new block a bit past Ute Pass and worked on a cool line. Crimps and pinches up a slight overhang. Probably around V9 or 10. Here is Max sticking the opening move.